A Favourite: Bishops Finger

The world of beer is as varied as the flavours produced. It ranges from the corporate Titans to the almost insignificant craft (formerly micro) brewers. Popularity of an image tends to outweigh quality today. It is refreshing in such an environment to know that stalwart brewers continue to provide real beers, ales and porters keeping a grasp onto the UK's past. This is commonly attempted by the smaller brewers of the land. Brewers that have continued to produce 'proper' beers despite the swaying changes in public drinking habits. One such brewer is Shepherd Neame, the oldest independent family brewer in Britain. Founded in 1698 it now produces 10 varieties of cask ales including one of Britain's strongest ales Bishops Finger.

Taking its name from the Kentish countryside, Bishops Finger relates to the signposts directing Pilgrims to Canterbury. The pilgrimage to see the shrine of accidentally murdered Archbishop Thomas Beckett (commonly and incorrectly called Thomas a Beckett) would be guided by finger shaped indicators. It is within the beautiful Kent countryside that Shepherd Neame collects all the ingredients for this ale. Subsequently it was quite fitting of the company to name it so when it went into production in 1958.

It certainly has clout. At 5.4% abv Bishops Finger is a strong ale commonly called a Premium Ale. It is refreshingly bittersweet and sits on the tongue imbuing its intense aftertaste upon the palette. The initial sense is a slightly sharp, yet sweet, almost bitter orange flavour. The aftertaste is distinct and quite dry, tasting faintly peppery and of full bodied Goldings hops.
The colour is aptly like that of a thoroughbred horse. The colour portrays a brooding yet pleasant visage managing to just hide its deeper more powerful side. It is a light chestnut almost dark amber and whether contained in a bottle, or poured into a pint glass, it captures the light clearly and is sediment free.

Bishops Finger is more than just an ale though. Shepherd Neame have used its strength, popularity and dedicated production to create the Bishops Finger Charter. This Charter is a decree that it can only be brewed on a Friday by the Head Brewer in a Russian Teak mash tun. It can only use Kentish barley, Kentish hops and water from Shepherd Neame's artesian well. Its inspirational dedication to production identifies it as a better ale. But this is not a competitive gauntlet to its rivals. It goes hand in hand with Protective Geographic Indicator status awarded to it by the European Union. This means Bishops Finger is the only beer in the world to be called a Kentish Strong Ale.

To the beer drinker the beauty of Bishops Finger is contained in its flavour. The label's purple theologically inspired background, Shepherd Neame crook and date of establishment will mean very little. But to the few that take time to savour and understand why such an ale came about, the satisfaction comes from the brewery. The ale is made with passion, to exact standards, from British, Kentish ingredients that can only ever be the real Bishops Finger.